This post is about you and how what I do relates to you … it will probably quell a few arguments as well.
Today.. men want their stuff now.. or even yesterday and I feel like this doesn’t make sense. Why wouldn’t someone want to wait at least a short period of time (one to four weeks max) for something that will be better than what is front of him.
Has the imagination lost out in all of our minds.. why can’t someone picture or comprehend that if they wait they can get something better. Unless obviously if something happens and you need something instantly.
Patience and planning can go a long, long way within your wardrobe. Whether you have someone that helps you or feel you’re capable on your own – these two values can take you miles ahead of those around you.
I constantly hear, “I cannot picture this,” when they’re looking at swatches for made to Measure. When in reality, the only thing you have to imagine is what’s in front of you. Most times, you’re not picking something obscure or extremely liberal… drape the piece over your arm and look at it against the skin of your hand… boom there’s your picture.
The point of this is what I mentioned above – patience and planning – goes a long long way to not making you look cookie cutter.
Sixteenth century writer Baldassare Castiglione was the first writer to coin this phrase – what it’s true intention was to help define the Western ideals of a true gentleman. The Webster Dictionary’s definition of the word is, “studied nonchalance: graceful conduct or performance without apparent effort.” In layman’s terms.. the art of looking as if you did not try to appear that amazing.
This is where it comes into the gentleman’s wardrobe (and where a lot of gentlemen are getting it wrong) and how it relates to their life.
The idea of sprezzatura in relation to one’s clothing is not simply just breaking up a suit and thinking that it is OK because “you are being sprezza” as I have heard certain gentlemen call it. No. Relate back to the definition, “studied nonchalance,” rather than random stabs at not caring.
A true gentleman always puts thought into his appearance as I have mentioned in a previous post and wearing different coordinating/contrasting articles of suiting is an art form; an art of expressing oneself.
However, this is where the gracefulness and nonchalance should be apparent. A gentleman should be confident, not arrogant. He should be able to walk into a room and everyone is put at ease because of the air around him.
Sprezzatura is not concept that is simply mixing and matching but it is the true embodiment of what a gentleman should be and what this blog is about: confidence.
PS. if you do not follow Luca Rubinacci (featured image) on Instagram already.. please do – his gentleman’s tips are great reminders of what we should all embody.
This post is about something completely unrelated to the previous post.
It’s about the literal value of things and why they cost what they cost and how it relates to you.
I’m writing this because I had a client come to me the other day with quotations from other locally owned made to measure businesses that were exorbitant prices for made to measure suit from a “no name” maker using well known fabric mills.
He asked me what would be the point of buying a Canali or a Zegna suits or jackets when he was just paying for their marketing.. that is what the rationalization that the other locally owned business used to sell him on their product.
This is where the consumer needs knowledge about these makers as well as others who are all over the price spectrum. You’re not paying for marketing.. it may be part of their cost formula. But as far as I can tell – hand work on some garments, the literal construction of it, the details that go into the making these garments and as well as the many, many years of expertise that these companies (some have been around since the early to mid 1900s) have learned and literally turned into a science is all part of the equation.
For example – I’m not saying that everyone should go and buy a $3500 suit… hardly .. just making a point – Ermenegildo Zegna HAVE their own sheep farms and they produce certain wools and take the best sheep from that inch ? , breed them – then do it again with the next offspring and continue to do this until they find a wool that literally feels like silk. They have been doing that since before WW2… SO to me personally, that’s not marketing, it is science.. it is the development of a fine product that withstands the test of time and wear.
Now to make another point – I’m sure that the proprietor of said shop makes a nice product. That’s neither here nor there. My point is to you as a consumer/suit wearer/whatever you are, is DO your homework and find a shop who will tell you how it is (who has integrity..yes, they exist), only then will you be in good hands.